Sunday

◆Dior◇Story 品牌故事

Dior,法语中“上帝(Dieu)”与“金子(or)”的组合,一位无懈可击的时尚缔造者,一个万众瞩目的香氛品牌,一个高贵、典雅女性的象征。这个由同名时装设计大师创造,鲜明代表法国高贵典雅生活风格精华的品牌,半个多世纪以来,在时装、香水、彩妆和护肤领域,一直致力于全方位聆听女性心声,演绎了现代女性的梦想—— 性感自信,激情活力,时尚魅惑!

◆Dior先生◇

Legendary fashion designer Christian Dior was born in northern France in 1905. In 1947, Dior exploded onto the Paris fashion scene with designs that flew in the face of wartime restrictions and reintroduced a femininity and focus on luxury to women's fashion. His resulting success, based on the innovation of both his designs and his business practices, made him the most successful fashion designer in the world. His designs have been worn by film stars and royalty alike, and his company continues to operate at the forefront of the fashion industry. Dior died in Montecatini, Italy, in 1957, at the age of 52.

◆艺术的一生◇

Christian Dior was born on January 21, 1905, in Granville, a seaside town in the north of France. He was the second of five children born to Alexandre Louis Maurice Dior, the owner of a highly successful fertilizer manufacturer, and his wife, Isabelle. When he was a boy, Dior's family moved to Paris, where he would spend his youth. Although Dior was passionate about art and expressed an interest in becoming an architect, he submitted to pressure from his father and, in 1925, enrolled at the École des Sciences Politiques to begin his studies in political science, with the understanding that he would eventually find work as a diplomat.

After his graduation in 1928, however, Dior opened a small art gallery with money he received from his father, who had agreed to lend his son his financial support on the condition that the family name would not appear above the gallery door. In the few years it was open, Dior's gallery handled the works of such notable artists as Georges Braque, Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau and Max Jacob. He was forced to close the gallery in 1931, a year that included the deaths of both his older brother and mother and the financial collapse of his father's business.

出生于1905年1月21日的Dior先生,从小在法国北方诺曼第海边的美丽海滨度假城市 Granville长大。虽然家境富裕,但其父母对孩子的严格管教却毫不懈怠。
1931年,Dior先生的父亲经商失败,宣告破产,而他最敬爱与亲近的母亲也不幸去世。在如此沈重的打击下,Dior先生在一位作裁缝的朋友那里觅得一分画素描与纸样的职务,这却成了他日后辉煌生涯的起点。他先后曾在巴黎服装设计师Robert Piquet与Lucien Lelong门下担任助理,学习如何制作高级订制服装的艰深技艺。

◆经典New Look◇

Following the closing of his gallery, Dior began to make ends meet by selling his fashion sketches, and in 1935, landed a job illustrating the magazine Figaro Illustré. Several years later, Dior was hired as a design assistant by Paris couturier Robert Piguet. However, when World War II began the following year, Dior served in the south of France as an officer in the French army.

Following France's surrender to Germany in 1940, Dior returned to Paris, where he was soon hired by couturier Lucien Lelong. Throughout the remaining years of the war, Lelong's design house would consistently dress the women of both Nazis and French collaborators. During this same time, Dior's younger sister, Catherine, was working for the French Resistance. (She was captured and sent to a concentration camp, but survived; she was eventually released in 1945.)

大战结束后,Dior先生在偶然的机会下巧遇商业大亨Marcel Boussac,两人一拍即合,于是 1946年,拥有85位员工与投入6千万珐郎资金的第一家Christian Dior店,于巴黎最优雅尊贵的蒙田大道(Avenue Montaigne)30号正式创立,全店装潢以Dior先生最爱的灰白两色与法国路易十六风格为主。而影响20世纪流行女装服装史的最重要一刻,从此开始。

当Dior先生于 1947年2月12日推出强调女性优美线条的柔软肩线、束腰与大圆裙的时尚新装时,在场的所有与会人士为之惊艳。当时最具影响力的《哈波》(Harpers Bazzar)杂志总编辑Carmel Snow赞叹:It is a New Look!于是Dior先生的New Look革命不但带回了因大战而失去的典雅女性美,而且拯救了法国的时装事业,并更加奠定了他扬名后世的伟大名声。

1949年他成为世界首位签署授权合约之女装设计师,美国首张裤袜授权合约Christian Dior Hosiery于本年签订。而Christian Dior这个代表法国时尚的高级品牌,从此不再只是欧洲皇室名门淑媛或电影明星们的专利,他还走进了每个热爱时尚女子的日常生活中,Christian Dior是每个女人真切实际的华丽梦幻。

◆永垂不朽的时尚精神◇

今天当我们谈到20世纪流行服装史的重要纪事,Christian Dior不仅是代表了法国巴黎高级订制服饰传统的经典人物,他于1947年所推出被誉为"New Look"的第一场个人服装发表会,更是改写近代女装时尚风貌的华丽传奇。他还是第一位将自己的名字,授权于其他产品行销的服装设计师。而他的这项创举对日后设计师们自我品牌的行销型态,极具影响力。

Dior先生于10年间所设计的每一系列服装都以高雅尊贵并突显女性的娇媚美丽为主。他对时尚的鉴赏力与敏锐度更是超人一等,他曾雇用年轻的皮尔卡登(Pierre Cardin)先生为他公司担任首席裁缝,他还钦点初出茅庐的圣罗兰(Yves Saint-Laurent)先生为他的个人助理。虽然他于1957年不幸早世,不过之后的每一位继任设计师都秉承Dior先生一贯追求高级品质,优雅时尚且女人味十足的设计风格,并且不断创新的带领流行精神。从最早期的圣罗兰(Yves Saint-Laurent)先生,Mark Bohan先生,Gianfranco Ferre先生到1995年上任的John Galliano先生都不断吸引好莱坞巨星与欧洲皇室贵族及豪门贵妇们的喜爱与亲睐。

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