Showing posts with label Brand Story. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Brand Story. Show all posts

Tuesday

Hardy Amies赫迪雅曼——英国皇家设计师(绿茵球场的时尚装备)

 

今天,我们来认识的这位时装界名人是赫迪雅曼,Hardy Amies。

赫迪雅曼(HARDY AMIES)简称HA,成立于1946年,总部设在英国伦敦,该公司设计及制造世界知名的高品位服装及配件。

在他的简单的官方网站上,它这样写道:

Incorporated in 1946, The House of Hardy Amies is situated on London's famous Savile Row, the true home of Bespoke clothing. Our stunning townhouse building contains our showrooms, offices, studio and workshops.

Hardy Amies赫迪雅曼 他是谁?

对于国人来说,这位设计师的名字和他的同名品牌并不家喻户晓。但是一提到“皮尔卡登”,想必你会“哦~~”的一声。Hardy Amies是二战后时尚史上最受欢迎的设计师之一。他1909年生于西伦敦的Maida Vale,成为设计师后就迅速收到英国上流社会的欢迎。HARDY AMIES赫迪雅曼爵士与皮尔卡登、克丽丝汀迪奧并列为世界三大设计师,曾担任英国伊丽莎白女王的御用设计师达30年之久。

  • 1934 年他被母亲介绍到伦敦著名的 Couturier Lachasse 实习。
  • 二战期间他在英国情报局工作,后又转到英国的间谍机构 SOE(Special Operations Executive,特别行动处)工作,所以在1964年他才开始设计生涯,并在伦敦14号Savile路开了高级成衣店。
  • 1947年他的设计第一次登上 VOGUE。
  • 1955年他被正式任命为英女皇的设计师,之后他还为戴安娜王妃设计过成衣。
  • 1996年受封爵士。

Hardy Amies绝不是想像中的老古董设计师,他在2001年就为著名导演Stanley Kubrick的电影A Space Odyssey制作了富有未来感的戏服。在时尚界50年的拼搏后,他的资产已经扩展到20亿英镑。当问到哪一季的设计是他的最爱时,他总是说下一季。2000 年他将自己的品牌卖给了奢侈品集团,并在 2001年 的 11 月正式宣布退休。随后 Jacques Azagury 代替了他的职位,但在 2002 年的 7 月就离开了品牌,随和 Ian Garlant 登上了设计宝座,并然该品牌在高级成衣界继续发光。

他2003年去世,享年 93 岁。

Hardy Amies赫迪雅曼 品牌信念

HARDY AMIES赫迪雅曼爵士是世界著名皇家设计师之一。王室优雅风范在其作品上展露无遗,使赫迪雅曼精品领导服装界半个世纪,深受全世界绅士名媛的喜爱。它的服装无论在款式,面料选择上都是经过精心设计,决不沦于一般世俗。

赫迪雅曼(HARDY AMIES)象征着成功、活力,所表达的是淡泊从容、是活泼轻松、是典雅纯粹,也是成熟高尚。

Hardy Amies赫迪雅曼——绿茵球场的时尚装备

高尔夫是一项高尚的运动,其中的精致体现无处不在,与其他运动的不同之处在于它是唯一的一项教人走向成熟的体育运动,那么高尔夫球服装就应该带有成熟完善的机能与精致完美的气质,使你的高尔夫生涯无时无处不在展现你成熟及高尚生活的精彩一面。时尚与高尔夫是不可分割的两个概念,在高尔夫运动中体现更多的时尚特色,让时尚因素不断融入高尔夫。赫迪雅曼(HARDY AMIES)麾下的高尔夫服饰让高尔夫生活拥有了更多的享受空间。

HARDY AMIES敏锐地感受到人们在服装上对时尚的推崇、对舒适休闲的偏爱,于是摒弃高尔夫服装界保守的式样和颜色,开拓出风格各异的时尚款式;同时加入创意元素,让任何一个人在单调的球场背景下都能成为主角。

高尔夫球运动本身就是一种接近曲线的运动,这种曲线首先是从容的。HARDY AMIES所展示的,正是一种成功的活力。户外高尔夫运动者在高尔夫服装的选择上,流露出希望能贴近大自然、拥有简约纯美的清新气息,以及和高尔夫运动相匹配的活力。在运动时,可以使他们身体的各个部位自由移动。因而,HARDY AMIES服装的透气性也达到了相当好的标准。

以上时尚资讯由龙潮★流衣☆磨坊整理提供。
感谢您的悉心阅读。

Recollection of Hardy Amies

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Monday

Sisley 品牌故事story之耳闻眼见

「Long龙儿Er小编の話Prologue」今天关注sisley主要是有个朋友非要塞给我这个牌子的一个其貌不扬的小样。丢在架子上许久,没有使用的冲动,今天撕开,嗅到香精气里夹杂着生石灰味道,不禁眉头一紧,还有这多合一可以单独使用不分层的强大使用方法说明。这就是传说中享誉全球奢华植物护肤品牌,取自植物精华与精油,不计研发成本与时限萃炼植物护肤精粹,成就"追求卓越"的法国希思黎?

◣品牌诞生◢

跟商品的功效和用法相比,龙儿更喜欢了解它们的品牌故事,商品的各种元素可以被厂商和销售吹嘘得天花乱坠,然而品牌故事却在众目睽睽之下难逃历史的追溯。Sisley好似女子名字一样乖巧中透出坚强的性格,如果翻译成“西西里”而不是“希思黎”是否更贴切一些呢。

◣历史传承◢

1935年,D’Ornano伯爵的父亲参与创造了Lancôme,1954年,他与兄弟米谢尔开创了Orlane。1976年,爱好自然的D’Ornano伯爵夫妇,集其丰富的化妆品经验与知识,以超越当时的先进保养概念——植物美容学为基础,结合皮肤学家、植物学家与美容学家之智慧共同研究,成功出品植物护肤系列“sisley”。希思黎(Sisley)的创始人,修伯特·多纳诺伯爵(Count Hubert D′ornano),是法国著名的波旁王朝时期名门贵族的后裔。带着技术与理念创业的企业家总是让人尊重与敬佩。Sisley也是少数家族拥有并经营的化妆品品牌。

◣产品研发◢

据说任何一件带有希思黎标志的保养品,都要经过严格的品质测试。商品上市前,先需经过300名皮肤科医师的专业测试,以提供绝对安全性的保障。提到产品,难免被混入各种市场营销手段,与各种网络红人的软文;然而“植物美容学”跟其他各种化学产品比起来,依然是被推崇的主流。在了解一个品牌真正内涵的时候,势必要剔出各种天换乱坠的光环,看其本质。这个被伊丽莎白女王、黛安娜王妃,到法国前总统季斯卡夫人等钟爱的“以优质尊贵的产品,献给讲究的人士”理念的品牌,是否真有传说中如此神奇,让我们拭目以待。

Sunday

◆Dior◇Story 品牌故事

Dior,法语中“上帝(Dieu)”与“金子(or)”的组合,一位无懈可击的时尚缔造者,一个万众瞩目的香氛品牌,一个高贵、典雅女性的象征。这个由同名时装设计大师创造,鲜明代表法国高贵典雅生活风格精华的品牌,半个多世纪以来,在时装、香水、彩妆和护肤领域,一直致力于全方位聆听女性心声,演绎了现代女性的梦想—— 性感自信,激情活力,时尚魅惑!

◆Dior先生◇

Legendary fashion designer Christian Dior was born in northern France in 1905. In 1947, Dior exploded onto the Paris fashion scene with designs that flew in the face of wartime restrictions and reintroduced a femininity and focus on luxury to women's fashion. His resulting success, based on the innovation of both his designs and his business practices, made him the most successful fashion designer in the world. His designs have been worn by film stars and royalty alike, and his company continues to operate at the forefront of the fashion industry. Dior died in Montecatini, Italy, in 1957, at the age of 52.

◆艺术的一生◇

Christian Dior was born on January 21, 1905, in Granville, a seaside town in the north of France. He was the second of five children born to Alexandre Louis Maurice Dior, the owner of a highly successful fertilizer manufacturer, and his wife, Isabelle. When he was a boy, Dior's family moved to Paris, where he would spend his youth. Although Dior was passionate about art and expressed an interest in becoming an architect, he submitted to pressure from his father and, in 1925, enrolled at the École des Sciences Politiques to begin his studies in political science, with the understanding that he would eventually find work as a diplomat.

After his graduation in 1928, however, Dior opened a small art gallery with money he received from his father, who had agreed to lend his son his financial support on the condition that the family name would not appear above the gallery door. In the few years it was open, Dior's gallery handled the works of such notable artists as Georges Braque, Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau and Max Jacob. He was forced to close the gallery in 1931, a year that included the deaths of both his older brother and mother and the financial collapse of his father's business.

出生于1905年1月21日的Dior先生,从小在法国北方诺曼第海边的美丽海滨度假城市 Granville长大。虽然家境富裕,但其父母对孩子的严格管教却毫不懈怠。
1931年,Dior先生的父亲经商失败,宣告破产,而他最敬爱与亲近的母亲也不幸去世。在如此沈重的打击下,Dior先生在一位作裁缝的朋友那里觅得一分画素描与纸样的职务,这却成了他日后辉煌生涯的起点。他先后曾在巴黎服装设计师Robert Piquet与Lucien Lelong门下担任助理,学习如何制作高级订制服装的艰深技艺。

◆经典New Look◇

Following the closing of his gallery, Dior began to make ends meet by selling his fashion sketches, and in 1935, landed a job illustrating the magazine Figaro Illustré. Several years later, Dior was hired as a design assistant by Paris couturier Robert Piguet. However, when World War II began the following year, Dior served in the south of France as an officer in the French army.

Following France's surrender to Germany in 1940, Dior returned to Paris, where he was soon hired by couturier Lucien Lelong. Throughout the remaining years of the war, Lelong's design house would consistently dress the women of both Nazis and French collaborators. During this same time, Dior's younger sister, Catherine, was working for the French Resistance. (She was captured and sent to a concentration camp, but survived; she was eventually released in 1945.)

大战结束后,Dior先生在偶然的机会下巧遇商业大亨Marcel Boussac,两人一拍即合,于是 1946年,拥有85位员工与投入6千万珐郎资金的第一家Christian Dior店,于巴黎最优雅尊贵的蒙田大道(Avenue Montaigne)30号正式创立,全店装潢以Dior先生最爱的灰白两色与法国路易十六风格为主。而影响20世纪流行女装服装史的最重要一刻,从此开始。

当Dior先生于 1947年2月12日推出强调女性优美线条的柔软肩线、束腰与大圆裙的时尚新装时,在场的所有与会人士为之惊艳。当时最具影响力的《哈波》(Harpers Bazzar)杂志总编辑Carmel Snow赞叹:It is a New Look!于是Dior先生的New Look革命不但带回了因大战而失去的典雅女性美,而且拯救了法国的时装事业,并更加奠定了他扬名后世的伟大名声。

1949年他成为世界首位签署授权合约之女装设计师,美国首张裤袜授权合约Christian Dior Hosiery于本年签订。而Christian Dior这个代表法国时尚的高级品牌,从此不再只是欧洲皇室名门淑媛或电影明星们的专利,他还走进了每个热爱时尚女子的日常生活中,Christian Dior是每个女人真切实际的华丽梦幻。

◆永垂不朽的时尚精神◇

今天当我们谈到20世纪流行服装史的重要纪事,Christian Dior不仅是代表了法国巴黎高级订制服饰传统的经典人物,他于1947年所推出被誉为"New Look"的第一场个人服装发表会,更是改写近代女装时尚风貌的华丽传奇。他还是第一位将自己的名字,授权于其他产品行销的服装设计师。而他的这项创举对日后设计师们自我品牌的行销型态,极具影响力。

Dior先生于10年间所设计的每一系列服装都以高雅尊贵并突显女性的娇媚美丽为主。他对时尚的鉴赏力与敏锐度更是超人一等,他曾雇用年轻的皮尔卡登(Pierre Cardin)先生为他公司担任首席裁缝,他还钦点初出茅庐的圣罗兰(Yves Saint-Laurent)先生为他的个人助理。虽然他于1957年不幸早世,不过之后的每一位继任设计师都秉承Dior先生一贯追求高级品质,优雅时尚且女人味十足的设计风格,并且不断创新的带领流行精神。从最早期的圣罗兰(Yves Saint-Laurent)先生,Mark Bohan先生,Gianfranco Ferre先生到1995年上任的John Galliano先生都不断吸引好莱坞巨星与欧洲皇室贵族及豪门贵妇们的喜爱与亲睐。

Tuesday

Hardy Amies ---- British royal fashion designer

Today,we are going to be acquainted with a well-known fashion designer, who is HardyAmies. http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
HARDY AMIES, HA, was established in 1946.
On his simple official website, it says:
Incorporated in 1946, The House of Hardy Amies is situated on London's famous Savile Row, the true home of Bespoke clothing. Our stunning townhouse building contains our showrooms, offices, studio and workshops.
Hardy Amies ---- who is he? http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
"I can't help it. I'm immensely impressed by all genuine upper-class manifestations," designer Hardy Amies once admitted. Born in 1909 in Maida Vale, West London, Amies grew up to become of the most important post-war names of British fashion, and will always be remembered for dressing the Queen. http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
  • His mother introduced him to London couturier Lachasse for his first job in 1934
  • During WWII he served in the British Intelligence and later with the Special Operations Executive - so it wasn't until 1946 that he opened his couture house at No 14 Savile Row http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
  • In 1947 his designs appeared on the cover of Vogue for the first time
  • By 1955 he was appointed the Queen's official dressmaker - he would later design for Diana, Princess of Wales
  • He was knighted in 1996
Although Hardy Amies claimed his tailoring would not "frighten the horses", he was not fuddy duddy and Stanley Kubrick had him create costumes for the futuristic epic, 2001: A Space Odyssey. Over fifty years, Amies' business grew to be worth more than £200 million. http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
When asked which collection was his favourite, Hardy always replied "the next one". In 2000, he sold his business to Luxury Brands Group and retired from work in November 2001. Jacques Azagury became head designer of the label but left the post in June 2002 to be replaced by Ian Garlant, who keeps the couture alive and opened a ready-to-wear shop on the Fulham Road. http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
He died in March 2003 at the age of 93. http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
During the entire war, Amies had designed clothes for the British Board of Trade under the government Utility Scheme, which complied with the ration book standard. As Lachasse had closed at the start of the war, he also designed ready-made clothes for Worth.
In 1946 he established his own couture fashion house business, Hardy Amies Ltd, after buying the bombed out shell of a house that was №14 Savile Row. Although Savile Row is the home of English bespoke tailoring, the Hardy Amies brand developed to become known for its classic and beautifully tailored clothes for both men and women. Amies was vice-chairman of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers from 1954-56, and chairman from 1959-60. http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
Amies was successful in business by being able to commercially extract value from his designs, while not replicating his brand to the point of exploitation. Amies was one of the first European designers to venture into the ready-to-wear market.
Amies also undertook design for in-house work wear, which developed from designing special clothes for the England 1966 World Cup team, the 1972 British Olympic squad;[5] and groups such as the Oxford University Boat Club and London Stock Exchange. Amies also designed costumes for films, including 2001: A Space Odyssey. http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
Hardy Amies ---- royal fashion designer & his success http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
Hardy Amies began his career as a couturier when he was brought in as managing designer at Lachasse, in London, after the departure in 1933 of Digby Morton. His fashion philosophy, that elegant clothes must have a low waistline, characterized his work ever since and his clothes have always been just above the hipline rather than on the natural waistline. http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
Amies is perhaps best known for his work for Queen Elizabeth II for whom he began a long association as a royal dressmaker in 1950 when he made several outfits for the then Princess Elizabeth's royal tour to Canada. One of his best known creations is the gown he designed in 1977 for Queen Elizabeth's Silver Jubilee portrait which, he said, was "immortalized on a thousand biscuit tins." While Amies' royal patronage clearly enforced his international image, his menswear and related fashion spinoffs (such as licenses) were by far his most sucessful enterprise. His small leather goods, ties, knitwear, and shirts, produced and sold under licensing agreements in various countries including America, Canada, Australia, and Japan, made the Hardy Amies label a household name. http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
Amies weathered the transformation of London's fashion image as the home of the thoroughbred tailored suit to a veritable melting pot of creativity, during a career that spanned more than fifty years. And even after his retirement in 1994, he remained one of Britain's best known establishment designers. Though he has admitted "I'm absolutely astonished at my success," and downplayed his talent, everyone agrees Hardy Aimes has inimitable style. http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
The above information was recollected by Longer Vogue
Thank you for your attention. http://longervogue.blogspot.com/
Recollection of Hardy Amies
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